Ferries
The cottages that Agnes and I have had are both reached by ferry. Harsens Island is in Michigan on the St Clair River; 20 miles north of Detroit, across Lake St Clair. The island can only be reached by a short ferry ride from Algonac. During the severe winters, the freshwater channel freezes over; a crossing is cut thru the ice for the ferry boats. Problems occur when the ice melts and the mushy ice flow becomes impassable. The island is only accessible, in an emergency, by helicopter. On occasion, the helicopter has had to bring in necessary food and supplies from milk to beer! Our cottage, an hour’s drive east from Cranbrook, was our getaway.
Shelter Island is at the east end of Long Island NY. Again, the island can be only reached by ferry; either from the north or south. We use the North Ferry from Greenport; that is where the bus arrives from Manhattan. The Jitney bus ride takes nearly three hours; the ferry crossing is fifteen minutes. These ferry boats, in Michigan and New York, take vehicles and foot passengers. The crossing to Shelter Island, known by the locals as “The Rock”, is picturesque with boats, inlets, beaches, houses and wooded hills.
Nevertheless, to get to either of our islands was a chore; a long way to travel by air, road and water. I will always remember our dear friend, Tony Jones, who had visited us on Harsens Island, coming to Shelter Island. On a hot day in July, he arrived at Greenport. He got off the bus from Manhattan, dropped his bags and said, “Hell and damnation! Why on earth do you always find a cottage that takes hours by road from the nearest airport; then you have to cross a ferry?”
Harsens Island
After a few months at Cranbrook, I did realize the need to get a place away; ‘a retreat’. One day, I was in the office of Ernie Jones, chairman of the Academy’s Board of Governors. I saw an aerial photograph of an island; I asked where this was, the Bahamas I guessed? Ernie laughed, saying that was his cottage at the Old Club on Harsens Island; would I like to visit. In April, I went to visit Ernie and his wife, Marion. The ride over the ferry was a surprise and the island was a delight. Harsens is an island shaped like a horseshoe, like an inverted U facing north. The island was formed by the dividing of the St Clair River; the surrounding small islands and sandbars form a large freshwater delta. The road winds for 11miles to southwest tip of the island and the Old Club, a group of colorful houses on stilts or wooden poles above the water. The house were built in the 1920’s; I visited one and was shown the trapdoors that were put in originally; on the deck for fishing; one in the kitchen for garbage; and one in the bathroom for potty time! Of course, the trap doors all opened and used the same water!
The island is flat with marshes in the middle; tall marsh grasses and low water between the two long roads. The South Channel is the St Clair River, separating the USA and Canada; our sunrise came over the Canadian marshes; great duck hunting. Again, as I write, I use the internet to check facts; hit ‘Harsens Island’ for more information and photographs. One entry describes “the winter wonderland” and mentions the Coast guard plying the waters to keep the ice, freighters and ferries moving. One dreadful winter, Agnes and I had an awful experience. We were walking through the frozen marshes on thick ice; suddenly, we were on thin ice! Unbeknown to us, we had come to a narrow passage and the water was still moving below. The ice collapsed, we fell into freezing cold water, up to our necks. I grabbed some frozen marsh grass and held Agnes; somehow we managed to clamber out on to the ice. Our golden retriever, Ace, paddled around; I managed to haul him out. Shivering, in soaking wet clothes and sloshing boots, we walked back across the deserted marsh in bitter cold wind. Back at the cottage, hot showers and a hot toddy brought us back to life, still shivering and shaking for hours to come; either from the cold or the terrifying ordeal?!
Forever after, Ernie Jones would admonish us “to keep off that damn ice”! Many happy times were spent at the Old Club with Marion and Ernie Jones and their family. We were privileged to be part of that family; becoming close friends, celebrating holidays together. The summers were always fun on the island, boating on Ernie’s Chris Craft was a delight. The family were wonderful and we have endless memories of play and parties; happy days!
Ernie
Ernie Jones was Chairman of the board of Governors when I accepted the position as President of the Academy. He continued on as Chairman for many years; I was more than fortunate as he was a remarkable and respected leader. In the world of Advertising, Ernie was something of a legend. I remember him telling me that he was off to Hawaii to meet with the NFL. I asked him why and he replied that he was going to bring the Super Bowl to Michigan?! I was incredulous. Although the game would be played inside, visitors would have to deal with the January winter snows rather than enjoy the sunshine of the South. However, the saying that “he could sell ice cubes to Eskimos” did apply to Ernie.
In Time Magazine, January 1982, an article was published “First Outside Sunbelt”. The following in an extract: “Pontiac, Mich., a lunch-bucket industrial suburb 25 miles northwest of Detroit, seems an unlikely host for Super Bowl XVI. It is the first time in the history of the sports event that the game will move outside the Sunbelt. “The N.F.L.'s decision to bring their ball to Pontiac's playground was not entirely magnanimous. Ernest Jones, 66, chairman of the Michigan Super Bowl Committee, is also chairman of D'Arcy-MacManus & Masius, a Detroit-based advertising agency, and he tackled Pete Rozelle with the aid of an awesome lineup. Jones got a full roster of ad-firm chieftains to "remind" Rozelle of their dedication. That dedication is measured in automotive industry advertisers—from cars to spark plugs to tires—who have supported the N.F.L. on television with an estimated $1 billion in commercials over the decades. "It was like whacking a donkey with a two-by-four," recalls Jones. "It got their attention." And their votes.”
I know why as Ernie showed me the video prepared and shown to the NFL. The impressive presentation resulted in Super Bowl XVI being played at the Pontiac Silverdome on January 24, 1982. The San Francisco 49ers beat the Cincinnati Bengals 26-21; 49ers quarterback Joe Montana was named MVP. In the cold-weather city, the domed stadium saved the crowd at the game from the very cold and snowy weather.
The weather did affect traffic with icy roads and a wind chill well below zero. I know because Ernie invited me to join him at the game; I was his designated driver! We went to one of many receptions, lavishly hosted by the auto industry. The roads were crowded and treacherous but I drove along the shoulder; after all, Ernie was the Host Chairman. The VIP box of the NFL was Ernie’s regular box from which we watched many a Detroit Lions game. The Super Bowl was special, especially as Diana Ross joined us. I welcomed her and she asked for a phone. She was so excited about having just sung the National Anthem; she wanted to phone her mother. Diana Ross was distraught when she heard that her mother did not watch the TV and missed the highlight of her daughter’s career?!
Ernie had a passion for the University of Michigan; he was ‘true Blue’. I watched games with him at the Ann Arbor stadium and on TV. Whenever Michigan got in the Rose Bowl, Ernie and Marion hosted a party at their home. Ernie would have every television set in the house tuned to the game; he would pace from room to room to see his beloved Wolverines. If any play went against the Maize & Blue, he would go to the other set, just in case the play was better on that set?!
Ernie conducted the Marching Band at the stadium. Ernie was an accomplished and inspiring conductor; “Hail to the Victors” never sounded better than under his baton. His love of music was sincere and he personally knew many performers. Frank Sinatra would personally welcome and wave to Ernie from the stage. Ernie regarded Victor Borge as a friend. Ernie was remarkable in every way; I admired him greatly and I think the feeling was mutual. We had wonderful times together.
Marie & John
Other wonderful times were had on Harsens Island with our dear friends Marie and John Eidt. Both were teachers in Detroit; now retired. For the past forty years we have had many adventures together; on the island and elsewhere. When Agnes and I were working, like us, they kept their cottage open through the winter as their getaway. The winters presented real challenges and the summers were magical. Many memories and too much fun; isn’t that what friendships are about? You learn from one another; you share and you enjoy; certainly, we did.
In the village of Sans Souci, the bar was the social center of island life; you could start your morning with breakfast right thru the day to dinner. The real purpose was not eating but drinking; many a festive party was held with the bar festively decorated, as were people. On one Halloween Party, a local turned up dressed as a duck blind, most appropriate for Harsens, surrounded by marshes. Unfortunately, he was also smoking and, predictably, the blind caught fire and went up in flames. The fire was doused with a pitcher of beer and the party went on! Located on the freighter channel, the bar was a popular place; year round native Canadians came across the river from the Indian Reservation. The liquor store sold more beer than any other place in the state; most of the beer ended up across in Ontario, on the Walpole Island Reservation.
Another eating place was “The Boat” which was just that; a large old cruise boat, tie up at the Algonac ferry landing. Converted to a restaurant, on the water, with distinctive old interiors, “The Boat” was popular; on one occasion, Marie and John Eidt went with us for dinner with my mother. Milla and Agnes like red wine; we ordered a bottle that came chilled. Mother commented she preferred her red wine at room temperature; the waitress overheard, saying, “OK, dearie, I’ll get you warm wine”. She returned within minutes, opened the bottle and, triumphantly, poured a glass of steaming, bubbling wine! We asked what she had done. The waitress replied, “I zapped it in the micro wave!” Ah well, the island life; that restaurant soon closed. Ironically, years later, Agnes and I saw the old boat stuck in a lock at Lake Okeechobee; the rusty tub was on the way to Hollywood. That is the one in Florida; where she was tied up, rusting away.
Marie Eidt will always remember the cruise with my mother to the nearby Gull Island. John had anchored their 1940 Chris Craft in the shallow water off the small island. We were going to wade ashore; Milla decided to come, taking off her nylons and tucking up her dress. The rest of us were in swim suits; Agnes and I helped her off the boat; mother waded to the beach, grasping her handbag with pocket book. She never went anywhere without her handbag, so there she was on a deserted island, clambering over tree roots and rocks; fiercely clasping that handbag! Of course, we had many boating adventures; from the annual firework display to anchoring out in the marshes. Another tradition was to run alongside freighters and throw beer to the crew through an open hatch. Fishing was a delight, for in those years, the walleye and perch were plentiful; we would catch, clean and cook. Happy Island Days!
Many of our friends visited us on the island; as did our son Chuck and daughter Annie. During those years, John was in high school and came out to Harsens Island with us every weekend; he was my constant companion and friend. We had such fun together; many cherished memories.
Rayjuice
To write more is difficult, as the memories are those, cherished and personal? However, I will mention a few fun stories involving friends. Ray Fleming was, and is, a dear friend; he visited the island often, he loved to fish, not so much catching the fish as holding the rod. Ray did not like to either put the worm on or take the fish off; he liked fishing. He would stop by the bait shop to get his worms from Mrs. Cummings; she always wore curlers. Ray was convinced her hair was always wet because she swam under the boats removing the worms that she sold him; he was always losing worms! On another occasion, back on the mainland, Bob Kidd was giving Ray a special party; he asked us to help make this a surprise. I concocted this falsehood about a distinguished visiting critic who wanted to write an article on the Kidd Gallery. Of course, as director, Ray was delighted; I said the critic’s name was Sir Julian Slattherwhaite from England. We were to meet this fictitious being at a restaurant; Agnes and I picked up Ray who was doing his best to get the name pronounced properly. He was obsessed; still muttering as we entered the restaurant, where his friends stood singing “Happy Birthday”! To this day, he mutters about that deception. One day, our youngest grandchild saw Ray drinking Cranberry juice; from that day onward, she wanted ‘ray juice’. He still is known as “Uncle Rayjuice”!
Boyo
Tony Jones and I share much; we were born and educated in Wales. We greet one another “Boyo”, slang term for buddy. We both became college presidents and close friends. I first Tony at New Orleans in 1969; I was lecturing at Loyola University where Tony was teaching. I am ten years older, the fact of which he constantly reminds me and everyone else; he actually persuaded some that I was his uncle! Anyway, he knew of my reputation in Wales; we went to a bar, then on to the Playboy Club. We have a wonderful relationship ever since; professionally and personally. Professor Anthony Jones has had a distinguished career, including having served as Director of the Glasgow School of Art; Rector of the Royal College of Art; and President of the School of the Art Institute of Chicago. He has authored books and lectured extensively; once we did a joint presentation in Los Angeles on Eliel Saarinen and Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Rather ironic that he and I ended up heading and restoring institutions designed by architects who shared a philosophy of ‘totality of design’. Tony and I have done much together; Agnes and I always enjoy our times together with him and his wife, the photographer Patty Carroll. In the summer of 2001, they visited with us on Shelter Island, NY; at that time, Agnes and I were still cruising. Tony asked what our plans were and we replied that we had rented a slip for a year at Miami Beach. “Why would you do that?” he asked, “You just as well rent an apartment if you are no longer cruising.” After a fun weekend, Patty and Tony left; we began to think and realized Tony was right. That week, we flew to Florida and rented an apartment in Clearwater; we contacted Dayton Trubee in Annapolis and he agreed to buy the boat back from us. Our cruising days were over; we phoned Tony, who was flabbergasted, “Bloody hell, you did all that in less than a week; are you sure?” We were and never have had a moment of regret over that decision; we are grateful to Tony to this day. Isn’t that what friends are for: to talk things over; to have fun; to share laughter, life and love?
And
We have new friends here on the Gulf; our closest are from Michigan: Sharron and Lawrny Steiner, who created this website, and our fellow boater Skip Hogan. Lots of boating; so many laughs; fun in the sun, what could be better! The artists, Carol Mickett and Robert Stackhouse have their studio nearby; I have known Bob for 40 years. Nancy and George Ellis also live in St Petersburg and we visit often; George was director of the Honolulu Academy of Arts. Other retired museum directors live in Sarasota; including our friends Ruth and Andy Maass. However, life on the Gulf is another chapter in our lives; coming after our cruising years. I have been writing here about my early life and professional career; particularly the Corcoran and Cranbrook.
I could go on and on writing about friends. Enough is enough; many memories, many friends: Michael & Val; Nancy and Elmer; Mick; Ricky; Margaret & Eric; Billy; Mary & Ron; Janet & Ron; Linda & John; Jill & Aris; John & Kathy; Roberta; Bob; Shirley & Frank; Gil & Lila; Liz & Eliot; Elliott & Robin; Alicia; Addice & Peter; Bill & Sandy; Sylvia & Gunnar; Lillian Z; Susan L; Bob & Jan; Heather & Ron; Trevor & Harri; Trevor S; Margot & Warren; Janos & Diana; Dianne; Jan & Jim; Sally & Bill; Phebe & Sid; Pat & Jan; Ginger & David; Graham and Nancy; Sam & Beth; Hugh; Chuck & Emily; Margo & Bruce; Alex & Kathryn; Mimi; Marti; Claudia & Ed; Cynthia & Tony; Ken; Phyllis; Meryle & Tom; Elliott & Patti; the list goes and on…